The chef’s down-home touch has attracted a cadre of regulars and Louisiana ex-pats. Some come for Glenn’s more contemporary creations: A recent Sunday brought a memorable grilled boudin sausage (shipped in from Breaux Bridge, Louisiana) topped with his homemade pickles and Cajun mustard; sweet-sour chicken wings coated in homemade Cajun pepper jelly; and divine duck-fat-roasted asparagus punctuated with Chinese sausage, walnuts and blue cheese.

And there are others who just want to grab an above-par burger and some peel-and-eat shrimp accompanied by a sweaty mug of beer and listen to the tunes of a live Louisiana band.